Wednesday, July 31, 2019

Wednesday 31st July 2019 – Ivy Cove to Hunter River


Next morning, we woke to find the catamaran had gone, heading south with the tide. The Cove was beautiful with a nice white sandy beach and a huge fat boab tree in the center.


This was the Ivy tree, with the name of the pearling lugger “Ivy” and the date “19-10-1890”.


After a quick look at the Ivy tree (No boardwalk around this one as that government guy must have copped so much shit for installing the Mermaid one), we headed off on the flood tide towards the Hunter river about twenty-six miles away.

After rounding Hardy Point there was enough wind to raise the sails and we managed to sail the rest of the way into the spectacular Hunter river where we dropped the pick three and a half miles upstream.


Along the way we saw a large pod of dolphins and they rode the bow wave for a while before taking off.

The Hunter river is famous for its huge high rugged red canyon walls and is swarming with crocodiles. There was a strong easterly blowing and when the tide was coming in it made the sea stand up with high waves, although we were quite sheltered for the night up against the canyon wall.








Track Sirocco’s progress


Tuesday, July 30, 2019

Tuesday 30th July 2019 – Prince Regent River to Careening bay & Ivy Cove


At 08:30 I was rudely woken by the True North tender racing past at high speed. It was a nice (overdue) sleep in, but it was nearly time to get up anyway as I calculated high tide to be around 09:30 and we wanted to ride the ebb tide out of the river.

We packed up things, had breakfast and got ready to leave just as the True North tender sped past again. The mother ship was anchored a few miles upstream but it’s AIS was shielded by the canyon walls and we couldn’t see them and didn’t know they were there.

We departed just before high tide and made our way out of the Prince Regent river on the long journey back out into the ocean where we plan on heading north towards Careening Bay where in 1820, Phillip Parker King carved the name of his ship “HMC Mermaid 1820” into a boab tree while they were repairing their leaking boat.

Today is very hot with hardly any breeze at all and I am very concerned about our dwindling fuel supply having to motor everywhere we go.





As we entered the narrow sections around strong tide point and whirlpool point, we reached a maximum speed over ground of 12.3 knots, not bad considering we would normally be traveling around 5 knots.

As we exited the Prince Regent River approach and entered the ocean a nice fifteen knot wind sprung up and finally, I was able to raise the sails and switch of the engine and sail for a while saving our last precious diesel.

I managed to sail all the way to Careening bay where I dropped anchor around 16:30 and I went ashore in the dingy to go check out the Mermaid tree.


Careening Bay

I have always wanted to come here and see this tree as it is so unique in Australian history, but some dickhead in the government came up with this bloody great idea to install a steel boardwalk around it to stop all the tourists from compacting the dirt around the roots, so now you can’t take a photo of this iconic tree without this great steel monstrosity getting in the photo.

Well done mate, you bloody wanker.


Everyone steps off it and walks up to touch the tree anyway, because it’s thousands of miles in the middle of nowhere and who the hell is going to know anyway?

Great idea mate, go to the top of the grade, you get the gold star for stupidity.




It was pretty amazing to see just the same, two hundred years after it was carved. The sun was just about to go down and I didn’t want to stay in Careening Bay for the night as it is a very rolly anchorage with little protection, so I pulled anchor and headed to Ivy Cove as fast as I could, just five miles away.

We rolled into Ivy bay after dark using radar and there was another catamaran already there, so we parked up next to them just out of the strong tidal stream.

Track Sirocco’s progress


Monday, July 29, 2019

Monday 29th July 2019 – Prince Regent River (King’s Cascades, Camp Creek & Purulba Creek


My alarm went off at 05:30 as last night I calculated the best time to head off upstream to King’s Cascades was between 06:30 – 07:30 due to the 1 to 1.5 hours delay in the tide times.




We got underway around 06:45 and shortly after Discovery One’s two tenders passed us carrying their passengers up to King’s Cascades.

It was another very stressful trip the seven odd miles to King’s Cascades with more strong currents, dangerous rocks and shallow sand bars to negotiate.

As we approached King’s Cascades, we passed Discovery One’s two tenders going back to the mother-ship.

We arrived at King’s Cascades around 08:15, so we had around one hour and fifteen minutes to look around before the tide changed and we had to get out or risk getting stranded in the mud surrounded by thousands of hungry crocodiles.


I entered the King’s Cascades basin and anchored Sirocco right in front of the falls, There was not much water coming down, but it was very beautiful just the same and you could imaging just how grand it must have looked when Phillip Parker King stumbled across them flowing full power in the wet season of 1820.







Putu stayed on Sirocco while I went for a run around in the dinghy to take a few photos and to see where Ginger Meadows got eaten, then I climbed up the waterfall and went for a swim in the pools above and showered under the waterfall. It was so cool and refreshing, but the whole time the clock was ticking.




After climbing back down the waterfall to the dinghy, I went trolling for half an hour to try and catch a barra, but never got a sniff. I did see a three-meter crocodile though.



Time was up, we had reached high tide and it was now time to head back to our previous anchorage before the river dried and exposed sand bars blocking our passage.

Heading back down stream was so much less stressful as I just followed my route in. Along the way we saw thousands of large jelly fish floating in the current and several more small dolphins.

We anchored back at our previous anchorage and I jumped in the dinghy and headed off to explore Camp Creek before the tide dropped too much and trapped me in there for the night.

I headed upstream several miles until I reached the rock bar seeing several crocodiles along the way. I tied the dinghy to a small mangrove tree and set off on foot to the small waterfalls and freshwater pools beyond while nervously looking in every direction for crocodiles.






I had a nice swim in the shallow pools whilst laying back under the small water fall chilling out for half an hour, then with the thought of spending the night alone in this muddy crocodile infested hell hole, I made fast tracks back to the dinghy and headed back out into deeper water where I started trolling for that elusive barra.

Well, I didn’t catch a barra, but this creek was teaming with mangrove jacks and cod and I must have caught a dozen or more before heading back to Sirocco. It was the best fishing I have done for a very long time.


Catching two mangrove jacks on the one lure


Once back on Sirocco, I pulled anchor and headed down stream to Purulba Creek and anchored up stream in front of a lovely Kimberly high red bluff. I filleted all the fish I had kept and baited up four crab nets in the hope of catching some mud crabs.


While the crab nets were in soaking, I headed off in the dinghy to see what was upstream and to do a spot of fishing.

I went up as far as I could a couple of miles before a sand bar was blocking the creek, so I turned around and, on the way back did some more fishing.

I caught a heap more jacks and a very large cod that I released and then I caught the mother of all jacks, a nice two kilo fish that fought like a steam train.

I decided to keep the big jack for tonight’s dinner and headed back to Sirocco just on sunset. It was another huge Kimberly day and I was totally knackered.

Back on Sirocco it was more cleaning fish, then I jumped in the shower while Putu grilled up the big jack in the BBQ.

The fish tasted great, washed down with a few beers and we had an early night with the plan of heading out of the Prince Regent River tomorrow on the high tide around 09:30.

The current in the creek was too strong for the crab nets to sit on the bottom and as I pulled them in, a two-and-a-half-meter crocodile suddenly appeared at the back of the boat and wouldn’t go away.



I pulled in the nets and shook out the bait and put them away as quick as I could, but he still wouldn’t go away. One of the nets had been chewed up and destroyed. I just hope he doesn’t bite my dinghy and destroy that too.

Track Sirocco’s progress


Sunday, July 28, 2019

Sunday 28th July 2019 – Hanover Bay Inlet to Prince Regent River


We got up at 05:30 to cruise the last of the flood tide into the Prince Regent River. We waited for the cruise ship Discovery One (anchored near to us) to head off, but it didn’t, so we decided to wait for the bottom of the tide as that is what they were doing.


So, we had a busy morning while waiting for the tide. I re-fueled and started the generator and made water while charging the batteries. I re-fueled the dinghy and re-filled my two-stroke oil container, and I tightened all the bolts and screws in the anchor locker.

We cleaned out the port forward storeroom to gain access to all our spare diesel and filled our fuel tank. While I had accesses, I installed the paddle wheel sensor, then we put all the stuff back into this room.

While I was making water, Putu did all the washing and also did some cooking. As it will take several hours to fill both water tanks, I decided to go fishing and also to have a look around the inlet.

I caught a large trevally and several cod, then went for a run to the head of the inlet a mile or two upstream, did a circuit around one tree Island, then headed back to Sirocco.



When I got back to Sirocco, the generator had run out of fuel, so I re-fueled it and as I always do, I tossed the siphon onto the trampoline and in slow motion, the bloody thing slid through the holes and before I could grab it, into the water.

It floated for a few seconds and then slowly started to sink and there was nothing I could do about it. I was so pissed off, but it’s gone now.

With the water tanks full and the water maker pickled, we had some lunch and waited for Discovery One to pull anchor and at 12:00, we were under way, following them

We headed for Munster Water around Uwins Island and into St George Basin. The route is through all un-surveyed waters and very treacherous and many vessels have come to grief in this area.

We passed Treachery Head where Phillip Parker Kings surgeon (Andrew Montgomery) was speared in the back by aborigines in 1821.

We winded our way through the Islands past whirlpool point and strong tide point traveling fast with the strong current through whirlpools and strong tidal streams.

Discovery One was much faster than us and they powered on ahead several miles away, but I noted his course the whole time.

The passage was very stressful as I monitored the sounder the whole time, consulting the cruising guide and other information I had downloaded off the Internet.

There were large un-charted rocks, shallow reef and sand bars to negotiate the whole way as we sped along with the strong in going current doing seven to eight knots.

Once we entered St George Basin, the scenery became more spectacular with grand views of Mt Trafalgar and Mt Waterloo until we eventually reached the mouth of the Prince Regent river which flows perfectly straight for fifty-two miles.






The Prince Regent river is mostly very shallow with drying sand bars in the upper regions and we saw a few small dolphins along the way.

We negotiated lots of rocks and reefs as I watched the sonar going up and down as we passed over sand bars and reefs. I was pretty much a nervous wreck by the time we reached our anchorage for the night not far from Discovery One, just as the sun was going down.

We pulled into a small nook to the side of the river out of the main tidal stream where the current was only about three knots, where I dropped the pick on a rocky scoured bottom.

I looked for crocodile red eyes several times during the night, but didn’t see any.

I celebrated having made it safely into the Prince Regent River with a nice bottle of red wine on a hot windless night with lots of bugs and very bright stars overhead.

Track Sirocco’s progress