Friday, January 31, 2020

Friday 31st January 2020 – Gili Trawangan


The morning was dark and gnarlie with the odd rain squall now and again which is typical for this time of year. After the last couple of nights getting hit by local boats, I decided to move to another mooring that hopefully has more space around it. Luckily we found another mooring close by and hooked up.

In the morning Iyan and I took the dinghy across to Gili Meno to go snorkelling.

First stop was the statue. It was easy to find, just head in the general vicinity and then look for all the charter boats. The statue is a circle of large naked woman standing on the sea bed in about three meters. It was funny to see all their naked breasts were shiny and free of marine growth. We had this dive all to ourselves, but after a while a boat load of tourists pulled up and we decided it was now time to leave.

We headed to the north end of Gili Meno where there is good snorkelling and lots of turtles. We weren’t disappointed as we must have seen six to eight turtles on each twenty-minute dive. There was a very strong current flowing south, so I was connected to my long dinghy tether as we drifted along enjoying the view.

We must have done six or seven runs and saw some baby and massive turtles of about three different species. I have dived this location before and I am always amazed why there are so many relaxed turtles at this location so close to Bali.

In the afternoon we headed off to Gili Trawangan for a long walk before dinner. We finally found a nice restaurant right on the beach that everyone liked and got seated. The sky started getting blacker and you could feel the cool air streaming down off a thunderstorm and so the restaurant staff suggested we move inside their upstairs dining room.

It was a good move as it wasn’t long before the rain was bucketing down once again. The rain cleared and things quickly dried up and so after dinner on the walk back to the dinghy, we decided to pull up a bean bag and have a few beers watching the same band I saw the other night and we weren’t disappointed once again.

Luckily the gate wasn’t locked this time and after the Asian selfie squad got their selfies, we exited through the big love heart down the jetty and disappeared off into the dark.



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Thursday, January 30, 2020

Thursday 30th January 2020 – Gili Trawangan


I didn’t get much sleep last night and woke up hot tired and grumpy. 

Dave (Fonster) called up on the radio this morning telling me he has alternator problems and he has left for Benoa Harbour in Bali to get repairs done and a short time later I watched them sailing past.

I relaxed on the boat until around 11 am and then took the dinghy to shore.
Putu and Iyan were coming over to Gili Trawangan on the fast ferry from Bali and I was looking forward to having some company again.

Shortly after picking up Putu and Iyan and transferring them and their luggage back to sirocco a massive rain squall struck confining us to indoors for the rest of the day.

The wind got up over 45 knots at times and the poor folks on Fonster had a tough time getting back to Bali arriving around 9pm.

With not a lot else to do in these conditions, I washed the boat in the pouring rain while thunder and lightning raged all around us. Later on we enjoyed a nice home cooked dinner and watched a movie.

Once again, I was rudely awakened around 3am with a large boat smacking the poor dinghy under our cockpit and threatening to cause server damage to our cockpit hard top.

I had to act quick and so I raised Putu and Iyan for help. I needed to unlock the dinghy tether before I could move it and I threw the key ring to Iyan while I was holding onto the huge boats bow jerking violently up and down threatening to smash everything including me.

The key ring only had three keys, but in the heat of the moment it seemed to take Iyan five minutes to find the right one. Eventually he got the lock open and we could move the dinghy from under the bridge deck and once clear, I moved it to the port side of the boat where I secured it to use it as a fender to keep this dam local boat from causing any further damage.


It was a good move and we were able to retire for the night, shaken but not stirred. 


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Tuesday, January 28, 2020

Wednesday 29th January 2020 – Gilli Gede to Gili Trawangan


I was up early today as I was leaving the marina and heading north for the Gili Islands. After breakfast I got the boat prepared, then I had to wait for the marina staff to arrive so I could pay my bill and get the boat boys to let the bow lines go so I can depart the marina.

It was meant to be an 08:00 start, but by the time the staff casually rolled in it was around 08:45 by the time I got underway.

I was traveling with Fonster and they had moved off to a mooring last night and were waiting patiently for me. As there wasn’t a breath of wind again, I didn’t even bother getting the main sail out of the bag.


MV Fonster

The trip to Trawangan was pretty uneventful except for the bloated dead dog we passed. There were the usual ferries, a couple of tankers and numerous traditional fishing boat, some being under sail.


We experienced very little current along the way, maybe 1.5 knots at the most. The worst part was seeing all the rubbish in the water, but we did come across a large pod of dolphins which was nice.


Sirocco through Fonsters port hole

It only took around 4.25 hours to travel the 26 nautical miles to Gili Trawangan and I waved farewell to Fonster who was going a further five miles to Medana Bay marina.


I had been told there was a mooring I could pick-up out front of the Kokomo resort, so I headed over that way to see what I could find.

Gili Trawangan is a party Island and back packer mecca. As such, there are boats of all description zipping around at full speed in all directions and hundreds more on moorings, but through all the chaos, I managed to find a free mooring and get Sirocco securely attached without any drama.


The next step was to get the dinghy prepared and into the water. This is where things turned to shit. One of the tightening lugs on the outboard had seized and no matter how much sweat, muscle and CRC I used, there was no way I could move it at all.

The other lug was also seized, but I managed to get it turning after a while and I coated it in copious amounts of grease to help prevent it from happening again.

It was so hot and my energy levels were draining and the more muscle I used the more damaged the plastic tightening lug became. Eventually it broke off and after I removed the remains, I was then able to put a shifter onto the metal shaft and slowly start to rotate it. Before long I had the threaded shaft out and lubricated with grease.

After about an hour and a half we were now back in business, I lowered the dinghy down into the water, lowered the outboard and managed to attach it by myself, fuel tank in and connected and over the side for a well earnt swim to cool off.

The water was so nice, but there was a strong current whipping past so you didn’t want to miss the ladder while drifting between the hulls.

Later in the afternoon, I headed into shore and went for a long walk to see how the place had changed since I was here last about ten years ago. There was still a lot of earth quake damage, but most of it had been repaired or new buildings gone up. It was good to see a lot of the new buildings were made from bamboo which is such a beautiful traditional building material that is also resistant to earth quake damage.






The Pearl of Trawangan resort

There was quite a lot of people about, but it was bloody hot and I was sweating and exhausted and I just wanted to find a nice cool place to relax before dinner. I found the perfect place directly under a large fan in the front of a bar where I could people watch for a couple of hours while recuperating on ice cold beer.


After a few beers, I moved across the road to a small restaurant on the beach where I had some nice spicy Thai food under the trees. One of the things I love about the Gili Islands is that there are no motorbikes allowed and the only means of transport is bikes and horse carts. Apart from the pop music blaring, the only noise you hear here is the odd bike bell and the clip clop of all the horsed going back and forth.


After dinner, I followed my ears upstream towards the best sounding music which turned out to be three local guys playing live, so I pulled up a bean bag and ordered an ice-cold tall neck and settled in for the night. These guys were awesome and belted out great tunes one after the other till around 11pm by which time I had had enough.

The resort had locked the gate at the small jetty where I had left the dinghy and I had to wait for some Asians taking selfies next to the big love heart at the gate, then I had to climb through the big love heart and up over the gate to get through to my dinghy. Of-course they took photos of the crazy drunk Bule looking in disbelief. It all seemed perfectly natural to me, but that’s the cruising life.

I weaved my way through all the boats in the dark finding Sirocco just where I left her, and after securing the dinghy with a long stainless steel lanyard to prevent someone from borrowing it, I retired to the captains state room for the night to try and sleep in the hot steamy conditions with the loud doof doof doof rolling across the water from the night club.

My $40 fan from Bunnings was worth its weight in gold and I was out in minutes.

At three in the morning I was rudely woken by some loud banging on the hull. I immediately raced outside to find a massive high wooden boat bow smacking into the port side of Sirocco leaving paint marks all over the hull.

I wrestled with it for about twenty minutes before managing to get both boats separated and things back to normal. Exhausted, I crawled back into bed and immediately fell back to sleep.

Unfortunately, an hour later the same thing happened again as the moorings were all too close together and as either the wind changed direction or the tide changed, all the boats would swing or drift in all different directions and often clunk into each other. Not a big deal for an old fifteen-meter long wooden snorkeling boat, but not good for an expensive shiny white catamaran.



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Tuesday 28th January 2020 – Gili Gede


Today we had a nice sleep-in as later today Putu was heading back to Bali for a couple of days. Bob was also going back to Bali, so around 11am we all headed around to Kokomo resort in Bob’s dinghy where we had lunch and a couple of beers while we waited for the ferry to arrive.

After Putu and Bob departed on the ferry, I headed back to Sirocco and after doing a few small jobs, the heat got the better of me and I had to lay down for a nanny nap.

I woke up a couple of hours later and decided to cool off and jump in and clean the props and the hulls and while cleaning the barnacles off the port propeller, I ripped the top clean off one of my knuckles. It was really quiet a bad injury, but there was nothing I could do but clean it up and put a band-aid over it.

After a couple of exhausting hours in the water, Dave, Greg, Yos and I headed up to the restaurant for drinks and dinner. Once again it was a beautiful sunset as we sat overlooking the marina.








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Monday, January 27, 2020

Monday 27th January 2020 – Gili Gede


Once again, I was up very early in an attempt to beat the heat for a few hours. I found what had caused the short circuit last night, but I couldn’t find a spare fuse that I was sure I had on-board, so I had to bridge out the fuse for now until I bring another one back from Australia next trip.

After performing many tests, the new battery monitor was working great, but I discovered my 2kw inverter was still connected to the wrong side of the shunt and so I had to pull apart the switch board once again and swap the wires over.

I checked the oil and water on both engines and got the boat ready to head off and we spent the rest of the day cleaning the boat and generally getting everything ship shape.

I also organised to get around 160 litres of dexlite (diesel) delivered in large drums that I had to syphon into my main tank.

It was a beautiful sunset as we sat in the marina restaurant taking in the view.








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Sunday, January 26, 2020

Sunday 26th January 2020 – Gili Gede

I got up at sun rise today to get a few hours work done before the boat heated up. I wanted to install a new current shunt for a new battery monitoring system I had just purchased. It was going to be a long and difficult job and the sooner I get it done the better.


Every job on a boat is difficult

I spent the next eight hours kneeling on my bed with my whole torso inside the battery compartment with arms stretched out. It was hot and harder than I expected and I accidentally blew a fuse during the operation and it took me several more hours finding out what went wrong and rectifying the situation.

I also re-installed an automatic engine charge solenoid that I had removed in Perth before leaving, thinking that it wasn’t required………..Doh !!

With this new equipment I can accurately monitor the state of charge in my house battery bank and automatically charge both battery banks while the engine is running. This will take away all the guess work and save a lot of worry about having flat batteries in the middle of nowhere.


Which wire goes where ?

It was Australia day and Dave had his Aussie music blaring and Aussie flags up and I really wanted to spend the day with him relaxing and drinking beer, but it was nearly dark by the time I got my electrics back together and I was totally exhausted.

I quickly cleaned up and then we all headed off again to a restaurant on one of the small Islands for a nice feed and a few beers.


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Saturday, January 25, 2020

Saturday 25th January 2020 – Bali to Gili Gede


It was another early start to get packed up and ready to roll as today we were taking the fast ferry across the Badung & Lombok strait back to Sirocco on Gili Gede.

We got dropped off at the bustling ferry terminal at Serangan and sweated it out in the hot tin shed until our ferry was ready to depart. The 12-meter monohull was decked out with four 250 horse power Suzuki’s and it bounced along at over thirty knots.


1000 horse power / 30+ knots

It was hot inside and if you went out the back or climbed up on the roof the noise was deafening and the hot sun relentless.

We cut through the strong six knot currents with ease crossing the Badung strait and the first stop was the Island of Nusa Lembongan where we dropped off some guests and took some more aboard.


Nusa Lembongan

Next stop was Nusa Penida Beach Club on the north side of Nusa Penida where we stopped for a few minutes dropping some more people off before heading off once again through the fast-flowing rips and tidal streams across the Lombok strait.

We weaved our way through the many Islands before arriving three hours later at the Kokomo resort on the north side of Gili Gede where our friend Dave from Fonster was waiting for us. We loaded all our gear into his dinghy and we sped off to Marina Del Ray on the other side of the Island about fifteen minutes away.


Hot and noisy with a movie playing

Sirocco was sitting there just where we left her nearly three months ago. She had suffered a bit of damage to the gelcoat on the starboard back step where she had rubbed against the floating pontoon during a recent violent storm that rolled through. I knew I should have moored her further out, but you live and learn. Apart from that she was in great condition, but there was some mold under the cockpit hard top and also on some of our clothing inside.

The heat was unbearable without the slightest breeze and the humidity must have been hovering around 80% and in no time, we were dripping with sweat.

I had bags full of new gear and bits and pieces to make a few repairs and the odd job here and there and after we got unpacked and settled in, I got stuck into work.

First task was to perform a few tests on my faulty paddle wheel that hasn’t worked since leaving Perth last years. It would have been really handy in the strong currents we experienced through the Kimberly.


Every thing is fast here

I had purchased a new one and I wanted to compare the two to ensure the sensor was actually faulty and not the display. Thankfully the new sensor worked with my existing display and I didn’t waste my money, but it was going to be a hell of a job to replace the sensor with a cable running the length of the boat.

This job was going to have to wait for another day and I spent the rest of the day messing around with the plumbing and installing a bum gun in the toilet which I will later replace with a bidet toilet seat.

Mission complete by sunset, and then we headed off for dinner with Dave and Bob from Braveheart.



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Thursday, January 23, 2020

23rd & 24th January 2020 – Bali


We spent the time in Klungkung resting and catching up with Putu’s family and cousins. On Thursday afternoon we drove to Sanur to have a massage and after, a sunset dinner on the beach.

Friday morning, we got up early and drove to Kuta where we met our friends Eric & Unis (also from Perth) and their two lovely girls for a day out at Waterbomb park. It was a pretty full on day and after about six rides on the smack down I was starting to feel like I was getting too old for this shit.

A good day was had by all and it was very late by the time we arrived back at Klungkung.


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Tuesday, January 21, 2020

Wednesday 22nd January 2020 – Perth to Bali


We left Perth and flew to Bali, arriving at Denpasar around midnight. I was feeling very nervous having a two-kilo block of white powder packed carefully in my checked-in baggage and I was expecting to have to do some convincing explaining to the authorities in some dingy, hot back room.

The substance in question was sodium metabisulphite, a chemical I use as a pickling solution in my reverse osmosis water maker, and I can just imagine the look on the officer’s face if he puts a finger covered of this shit into his mouth to test for drugs.

After clearing immigration, we collected our checked-in baggage and were swept along with hundreds of other travellers towards the x-ray machines. There were hundreds of bags and suit cases being pushed in one end and quickly being removed on the other side and I was thinking how difficult it would be to spot any contraband at the rapid pace things were moving.

I collected my bags from the output side of the x-ray machine and after loading up my trolly, headed for the exit gate when suddenly one of the airport officials approached me and directed me to the area up the back for a baggage search.

On the outside I was calm and cool, but inside I was shitting bricks. I was asked to open the bag containing the two-kilo block of white powder and immediately I knew they were onto me. I fumbled with the combination lock the pulled back the zipper exposing the two-kilo block of white powder for all to see.

The officer’s eyes lit up and several other officers came over to take a look at the rare find. I was asked if I packed my own bags and if I knew what this substance was and I said “yeah mate, it’s sodium metabisulphite, a chemical I use as a pickling solution in my reverse osmosis water maker on my boat that’s in a marina over on Lombok”.

He just looked at me with a dumb look on his face and I asked Putu to explain to him in Indonesian what we use it for. He picked up the heavy bag of white powder and looked it over. Inside was a small piece of paper with the company’s name, contact details and details of the chemical name and use.

After reading the details, the officer shrugged and grunted something and then said “no problem’ and carefully placed the package back into my bag and we were free to go. By now, I hadn’t breathed for about four minutes and was probably turning blue, but it looked like the ordeal was over.

Out in the car park we were met by Putu’s father and uncle who took us back to Klungkung and I couldn’t get out of the airport fast enough.


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