Monday, October 14, 2019

Monday 14th October 2019 – Kupang (East Timor)


Putu woke me very early saying get up, we have to go shortly to clear in, then she realised all the clocks were still on Darwin time, and said sorry, go back to sleep. It was too late, the exotic Asian smells and sounds as well as the sun shining through the hatch had me excited to get cracking.






My gut feeling had me wanting to go with Riley, but Putu wanted to go with Michael (even though he was very expensive) just because he approached us first. (the Indonesian way)

So off we go, heading back to the snake pit at the water’s edge with the dinghy filled with ten jerry cans. Suddenly there are brown hands jostling over the dinghy, all the jerry cans quickly disappear and several people fighting over the anchor as we step ashore and try and look cool, as we calmly stroll up to the little road side shops and tables and chairs to cut a deal with Michael.


He’s trying to negotiate this turn key contract that includes SIM cards with 6GB of data, fuel delivery and clearance all in one. Suddenly some angry guy kicks the shit out of our jerry cans and they fly in all directions as all shit breaks loose.

Angry men are yelling at each other and pointing fingers and it quickly degenerated into a very ugly situation as we were ushered to one side.

Buying fuel in jerry cans is illegal in Indonesia as fuel in the service stations is subsidised by the government, but it’s the only way a cruiser can get fuel and there is always someone willing to break the law for a few bucks.

Suddenly I see a cop join in, but when I mentioned it to Michael he just laughed as it was only a parking cop with a fancy uniform.

It turns out Michael was a good business man with a small heart. I had him pretty well sussed out. He was going to pocket every cent and all the others would get nothing and some of them were really pissed off.

Putu insisted we will go to the fuel station to ensure the fuel was clean (so we could witness firsthand the price) and he knew we were onto him as he had grossly inflated the fuel price, so to keep the peace, he decided to palm the fuel off to the other men and we chose my man Riley to take care of this and he gave his boys some money to look after our dinghy.



So, now that the money was getting shared around, they all seemed happy and we could relax a bit. We did two fuel runs with Riley, topping our tank and filling all the jerry cans, then packing them all away. It was hot back breaking work and I was glad when it was done, then we had to wait until two o’clock for the clearance to begin.

For the whole time I was dressed in long pants and a nice shirt as this is expected attire by the Indonesian officials, so I was hot and sweaty all day. Finally, after hours of waiting, one by one they all started arriving. There were two guys from immigration, one guy from quarantine, and one guy from customs, so I had to make two dinghy rides to get them all out to Sirocco.

By now the sea breeze had kicked in and they were all shitting themselves as we flogged our way through the chop as I knew none of them would be able to swim.

Once on-board Sirocco, formal proceedings began. It was all very official with lots of papers shuffled and stamped, lots of photos taken and lots of big fancy signatures.

We bribed them subtly with cool lemonade and Toblerone’s that worked perfect.  One guts ate several as well as putting a few melted ones in his pocked for Ron.

I must have signed about twenty times and they were so impressed that I had an official boat stamp (that I made in Bali) they made me stamp every signature and every other document.

Suddenly the big quarantine man says your vessel is now officially out of quarantine and you can now go and lower your quarantine flag…….NOW. 

I didn’t know if he was taking the piss or not, but I quickly went and lowered the flag as he said.

About half an hour later and another ten signatures and boat stamps and we were done, then the cameras came out and it was time for the obligatory selfies. With handshakes all round and nonstop thank you's, we were now officially signed into Indonesia and we can legally stay for three years and enjoy what this beautiful place has to offer.

Then I had to ferry all the officials across to the other boat (Lyre) who had arrived this morning.
Well, it wasn’t quite over yet, we still had to check in with the Harbour Master, and the quarantine man had told us to report to his office to receive a green health book (whatever that is), so we still had a bit more running around to do yet.




Michael's driver took us first to the quarantine office and once done there, we drove to the Harbour Masters office arriving just on closing, but we managed to get everything done there before he knocked off for the day.

By the time we got back to the beach it was just on dark, so I raced out to Sirocco and dropped off the great stack of documentation and quickly changed into shorts and t-shirt and headed back to the beach for some celebration beers and a feed at the night market.



All the chairs in this bar were made from old motorbike tires

We hooked up with the multinational crew from Lyre and all headed up to the nigh market. We ordered fried and grilled squid, fried chicken and nasi goreng washed down with heaps of Bintang.


The bakery buss

It was a great night but we were all very tired so by ten o’clock we were all heading back to the beach. We bought Riley and his boys some beers and after, they swam out in the dark to retrieve our dinghy for us so we didn’t even get wet feet. Look after them and they will look after you.


Back on Sirocco, I didn’t tell Putu I setup a motion detection alarm and I waited for her to set it off and it scared the shit out of her. Yep, works perfect.

It wasn’t long and we were both sound asleep.



Track Sirocco’s progress



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