Tuesday, August 6, 2019

Tuesday 6th August 2019 – Palm Island to Swift Bay


Well today was a pretty big day. I woke up around 06:00, had a coffee and then went to fish the low tide. I got snapped off a few times losing some really big fish and a few more lures.

Finally, I got smart putting on a heavy mono trace and no more bust offs on the sharp rocks and oysters after that.

I got a mixed bucket of trevally, cod and stripy's, and a huge GT. Then at the bottom of the tide I went for a walk on the rocks and filled a bucket with large oysters, heading back to Sirocco around 09:00.

After cleaning the fish and shucking half of the oysters, we had breakfast, then I headed off in the dinghy to five-man creek to try and find some aboriginal rock paintings.

The tide was still coming in, so I tided the dinghy to a rock and headed off out bush. It was hard walking over the huge boulders and spinifex scratching up my legs. Finally, after about fifteen minutes I found some paintings in some over hangs and caves, but not the one I was looking for.





It was bloody hot and I didn’t have any water with me. I scrambled around for another hour, finding lots of very good and interesting paintings, mostly Bradshaw, but a lot had been painted over or vandalised by the aborigines.





The whole area has been occupied for thousands of years and there are shell middens tens of metres deep. It’s amazing to see so much human occupation in such a remote area. All the caves still have scattered shells & bones and signs of fire.





Eventually I found the painting I was looking for, an ornate canoe with five blokes rowing it, some wearing hats and smoking pipes. I think this could either be an ornate canoe from either PNG or Indonesia or it’s a long boat from a European ship.





I find these contact painting very interesting as well as the Bradshaw paintings. Who were these people and why do the aboriginals not want to recognise them and paint over them?
Are they Africans or people from PMG with fancy head dress?


The famous five men in a boat painting



There are thousands of middens all over the place

Anyway, mission complete, I headed back to the dinghy and it was safe and sound, and then I headed back to Sirocco. Once back on Sirocco, we feasted on oysters kill Patrick for lunch, and they were pretty bloody good.


I tried a few other types of shellfish as well as the oysters

After lunch, I pulled anchor and headed over to between Wollaston Island and Dog Ear Island where I dropped the pick and headed off in the dinghy again to check out some more aboriginal paintings.

This was another hard slog up over boulders (every 10th boulder was loose and ready to roll) and through the high spikey spinifex in the midday heat.

Eventually I found the caves and there were some pretty good paintings scattered all over the place. I just can’t imagine sleeping in the dirt, scrounging for food in crocodile infested waters and being eaten my midgies constantly, and no Internet, what a life.



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I have never seen carvings like this before? I wonder if they represent seasons? Initiations? Hunting trips? Visits? or bowels of clam chowder? 



 After an hour or so, I headed back to Sirocco and by now the tide was falling and it was urgent that we headed off. I had decided to take a short cut through the very narrow channel between Wollaston Island and Dog Ear Island. It will save us a couple of hours tomorrow, but if there is not enough water, we could end up grounded or even worse, rip a keel out or hole the boat.

My timing was spot on and we had three meters of water racing through at five knots with lots of jaggered rocks on either side. From here it was a short one-hour passage across to a sheltered little bay on the main land where we dropped the pick for the night.

There are so many really good aboriginal paintings (especially Bradshaw) in this area and I’d love to spend more time exploring and searching for them, but we need to keep moving on.

We ran out of water today, so we had to run the water maker for five hours to fill both tanks and to charge our batteries at the same time. 

It was a big day and now I’m totally knackered. We are having curried trevally & vegetable soup for dinner.




Track Sirocco’s progress





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