Saturday, August 31, 2019

Saturday 31st August 2019 – Berkeley River (Reveley Island) to Point Ford (night passage)


It was a loooooooong night in light winds and it’s so nice when the sun comes up and wakes up your brain. As we were making such good progress, we decided to pass Port Keats and continue onto Point Ford.

It was a pleasant day with either light wind right on the nose or no wind at all, so we motor sailed most of the way, occasionally turning the motor off and sailing about 30% of the time.

There was nothing but blue water all around us and about the only thing I saw was a very large banded sea snake.

I enjoyed eating yesterday’s cod for breakfast and lunch and around 17:00 I rounded Point Ford looking for a suitable place to anchor. Anson Bay is a very large and shallow bay, and Lizard needs about five meters to anchor safely (Sirocco only needs about two meters) and I drove all over the place looking for some deep water.

Eventually around 17:30 (WST) just as the sun was setting, I dropped the pick in 12m way out in the middle of the bay and waited for Lizard to arrive. We were very exposed and the anchorage was rolley, but there were only lite variable winds forecasted until the morning and I was too tired to care anyway.

Lizard dropped the pick close by around 19:00, and after a couple of beers and 151 miles closer to Darwin, I was snoring.


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Friday, August 30, 2019

Friday 30th August 2019 – Berkeley River (Reveley Island) to Point Ford (night passage)


I was up at 06:00 and the wind was blowing twenty-five knots, with very rough seas, so we decided to wait it out until the wind and sea state abated.

There was a strong five knot current flowing in the channel where we were anchored putting a good load on the ground tackle.

I spent several hours trying to connect to the Berkeley River Resort WiFi using my long-range WiFi extender without success, so I gave up in disgust and decided to go fishing.

 With the wind blowing so hard and the rough sea state, there was really only one place I could go and that was to some shallow rocks on the south western side of Reveley Island.

Right away I pulled out a few cod, keeping several good size ones and then WHAMO, a 780 mm barra took my lure and danced across the top of the water, leaping high in the air. 

Eventually I won the battle and had him in my bucket.

I called up Bruce and told him to come over and hopefully he will catch one too. Unfortunately, he didn’t catch a barra, but he did manage to catch a good size snapper.

I went off looking for another place to fish and close to our boats I saw a two-metre croc, probably the one we saw last night near our bonfire.


I fished some other rocks, catching a couple more cod, then went back to where I caught the barra. The tide was now low and there was a small pond behind the rocks and I pulled the dinghy up onto the beach.


I had seen a large fish in the pond earlier on and as I approached, I saw a small shark swimming past. I started casting my lure across the pond and immediately I caught a couple of cod, and then WHAMO, my second barra for the morning was on. It leapt in the air several times before I eventually landed him on the beach, a nice 500 mm chrome barra.

I caught two more barra, but both of them spat the lure and got away. I returned to Sirocco elated, and right away I cleaned all the fish. Putu baked the smaller barra in the Webber and Luke and I ate it for lunch and Putu cooked the cod to eat during the passage to Point Ford.


Gradually the wind and sea state abated and we headed off around 17:00. It was a very dark night and I had a lot of trouble unfurling the genoa as the top bearing has started to seize. (I just hope I can get the sail furled when I need to)

It was a good night passage in light winds with about 30% sailing and about 70% motoring or motor sailing. It was extremely dark and when I went to the toilet, out the window I could see lots of phosphorescence that looked like sparks flying everywhere.

The night was long and very tiring and I only got a few twenty-minute cat naps while Putu slept the whole time.

We passed the Blacktip gas rig way out on our port side and there were two tug boats anchored a long way off in the distance. We crossed the dreaded Joseph Bonaparte Gulf (Commonly referred to as the “Blown Apart Gulf”) about fifty miles offshore in benign conditions headed for Port Keats.


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Thursday, August 29, 2019

Thursday 29th August 2019 – Berkeley River (Amphitheatre Falls to Reveley Island)


We all slept in this morning after a big session last night. It was a lazy morning, Putu made some bread and I prepared the boat and downloaded a weather fax and the latest Windy GRIB files.

By now we had a resident massive school of small fish under the boat. They looked a bit like baby trevally and we would feed them all our scraps, they are going to miss us.


Finally, we got organised and left around 11:00, it was such a beautiful place and none of us really wanted to leave.

I setup my deck chair in front of the mast and with my remote control (autopilot & instruments) in one hand and with my phone (Navionics) in the other hand, I steered Sirocco while navigating with my phone.

In the left side pocket were the binoculars for spotting croc’s and a cold beer in the drink holder on the right-hand side.

I was all setup like King Dick as we cruised down this magnificent river, taking in the spectacular view as I digitally steered left and right. It must have been an unusual sight for all the guests in the Berkeley lodge cruise boat as they went past.

All was going well until my bloody hat blew off. I turned Sirocco around to get it, but Luke was on the ball and shot off after it in the dinghy. I think it was just an excuse to get his usual morning espresso from Putu.

We dropped anchor at Paul’s Creek to take a look at the falls. After lunch, Bruce, Luke and I went in Bruce’s dinghy, tying to a rock ledge just inside the creek mouth and climbing up the steep rock wall using the large rope someone had installed.


We followed the stone cairns along a rough walking track at the top of the gorge until we came to the waterfall at the end of the canyon. It was really beautiful and quite a surprise after the tiny entrance through the muddy mangrove creek.


There was a bit of water still flowing, enough to have a nice cool refreshing shower while sitting on the ledge and we all took turns, then warmed up in the sun before having another shower.


Down in the pool below, we could see lots of large mangrove jacks, archer fish, mullet and other large fish. It really was a great place and well worth the effort to walk in, but we had to keep moving if we want to cross the sand bar on the high tide.

While cruising down the river, we saw a giant stalk eating a sea snake and a small two metre crocodile swimming along.

When we got to the river mouth around 16:30, it was blowing about twenty-five knots from the east and the sand bar had surf breaking across it.

After talking to Bruce, (from Lizard) I decided to cross the bar first and if it was too shallow for Lizard (including the swell), then I would return and we would wait inside the river mouth until conditions improved.

The depth and swell seemed okay, so Lizard decided to cross the bar as well. It was fine for Sirocco (having a shallow draft), but Lizard only just made it through, touching the bottom several times with the keel retracted.

Once through the sand bar, we anchored in five metres of water in the shelter of Reveley Island. Luke and Putu stayed on Sirocco to organise dinner, while Bruce and I went ashore onto the beach to collect wood and start a camp fire, with Putu and Luke joining us later.


It was a great camp fire which kept the mozzies away, but suddenly Bruce’s dinghy blew away and I had to go and retrieve it in the pitch dark using my dinghy.


Eventually it became time to leave our great camp fire and head back to Sirocco for dinner, but by now it was low tide and the sand became thick mud up to our knees making launching the dinghies very interesting and messy. We were all hoping that there were no croc’s around!

Putu baked my large barramundi in the Webber and fried up some cod for dinner and it was delicious. Later on, we got the spotlight out and there were two red dots (crocodile eyes) right near where we were stuck in the mud after the camp fire. Hmmm, lucky!

It was a big night, great fun and there will be some sore heads tomorrow.



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Wednesday, August 28, 2019

Wednesday 28th August 2019 – Berkeley River (Amphitheatre Falls)


This morning Putu and I were up at 06:00 and went down to the rock bar to take photos during the magic hour. It was really spectacular as all the canyon walls were glowing in the morning sun.











We fished for an hour or so and only caught a barracouta and later we returned to Sirocco to check on the weather (as the wind had come up quite strong) and to start getting Sirocco ready for the long trip to Darwin.

I filled up the tender’s fuel tank and we have about twenty litres of outboard fuel remaining, so I calculated that well. I then dug out all the remaining diesel jerry cans from under the spare room bed and pored three of these into the main fuel tank and relocated the two remaining spare jerries to the anchor well in case we need them during the voyage to Darwin.

Around 11:00 we called Bruce and Luke over to have scones & cream on Sirocco so I could discuss the weather and our passage plans with Bruce.

We were trapped in the river until at least Friday due to strong winds created by a large high in the bight. We decided to stay here another night, then move down to the river mouth tomorrow morning, crossing the bar in the afternoon and anchoring at Reveley Island and maybe heading off towards Darwin Friday morning or afternoon, weather permitting.

After lunch I spent a couple of hours writing up my blog while Putu baked some lovely bread. Since she bought some spring measuring scales that work on a boat (the electronic strain gauge scales don’t work on a moving surface), her bread making skills have increased to perfection and I get to enjoy toast for breakfast every day.


At two thirty, Harmony departed and we waved goodbye to Gordon & Myra.

At three o’clock, we all headed off to the waterfall and rock bar pools for a swim to cool off and to fish for barramundi. Once again, we could see fish but none of us could catch anything decent. All we caught was a couple of barracoutas. (technically a barra, but they don’t count)

We saw a two-meter crocodile sunning its self on a rock that slithered in as we approached.

Putu found Bruce’s fish scaring lure he lost earlier on and we quickly gave it back before it jinxed our boat. I drove the dinghy under the waterfall so Putu could have a nice shower, using the motor to hold us there, then it took ten minutes to drain a few hundred litres of water out, but it did give the dinghy a good wash out.

Then we went down to the rock bar to do some washing and to cool off, laying in the shallow pools and small waterfalls. The Berkeley River really is a fantastic and very beautiful place and like the King George River, it must be an impressive site to see in the wet season.



Rock walabies



Tonight, Luke cooked pasta and meat sauce and he and Bruce joined us on Sirocco for another great meal and fun evening.


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Tuesday, August 27, 2019

Tuesday 27th August 2019 – Berkeley River (Amphitheatre Falls)


This morning I woke very early and after some breakfast, I headed off fishing for a couple of hours and only caught one Jack and a one-meter long barracouta.



The water was crystal clear and teeming with life. I saw sharks, stingrays, very large morwong, huge queenfish and trevally, blowies, batfish, turtles, huge jellyfish, jacks, mullet and two banded sea snakes just to name a few. I also saw twelve rock wallabies bouncing from rock to rock along the gorge walls.




After lunch we all headed down to the falls below the rock bar, and then later to the rock bar.
On the way into the falls we saw a baby crocodile right next to the dinghy and he wasn’t scared of us and just sat there.


We tied up the dinghies right next to a fast flowing three-meter-high waterfall and we climbed up the cliff and took turns having a swim in the waterfall, then we all walked up the river stopping here and there to swim in the clear pools. It was really beautiful with lots of water lilies in flower and some pandanus.










When we left the falls the baby crocodile was still there. We headed off upstream to the rock bar with Bruce & Luke ahead of us. Once again, the beauty of this river and the scenery was so impressive.

As we approached the narrow gorge leading into the rock bar, I could see Luke on the rocks making a "catching a fish" gesture. It was like charades and we were thinking what the hell is he doing, then I realised, he was telling us to throw a lure over.


Right away I cast a lure and as soon as the line pulled tight and I closed the ratchet, BANG, a massive fish hit the lure and took off on a big long run, then it leapt high out of the water and there was no mistaking what it was……… a BARRAMUNDI


It put up a good fight, leaping repetitively but slowly I made ground and before long had him beside the boat. Luke was filming the whole time from the rocks only a few meters away as I lifted him into the boat and then it was high fives all around. It was an amazing experience and it all happened so fast, it was so surreal.

After this, we all fished hard for the next four hours and only managed to catch a couple of jacks and some barracouta. It must have been the only barramundi in the whole river and it was right place, right time and I just accidently hooked it while it was yawning.

The reason all the fish are not bighting is due to the cold temperature of the water this time of year making them inactive.

Late in the afternoon we went for a swim at the rock bar, then we went back to Sirocco where I prepared the barra for tonight’s dinner. It was 570 mm long and a beautiful chrome colour from living in the salt water. (in fresh water they are a golden colour) The minimum size for a barra is 550 mm and the maximum size is 800 mm, that is because after a certain age and size, all barramundi turn into females.

Coated with a bit of garlic butter source, we placed the barra in foil and put it into the webber. This is a great way to cook fish, as even average tasting fish like trevally come out tasting great.

We also prepared some jacks, flathead and cod that I caught, then we all went across to the amphitheatre (including Gordon & Myra (from Harmony)) where Bruce had prepared a camp fire earlier on.


The camp fire was great, but after a couple of hours, when I stoked it up, the rocks Bruce had placed around it started to explode sending hot rock shrapnel in all directions. After three or four explosions we decided to retreat back to the safety of Sirocco and have our fish for dinner.


The barra was superb and so was all the other fish and we had some fish nuggets left over for tomorrows breakfast or lunch.

I had kept the barra head and put it in a crab pot under the boat to try and catch some mud crabs, and when we got back to the boat, I pulled it and the head was missing and half the crab pot had been chewed up by either a shark or a crocodile. At this rate we are going to run out of crab pots before we reach Darwin.

Bruce and Luke stayed for a couple of beers and we had a lot of laughs telling story's of past adventures.


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Monday, August 26, 2019

Monday 26th August 2019 – Berkeley River (Casuarina Falls to Amphitheatre Falls)


This morning I got up at 06:00 to take photos of the gorge during the magic hour and then after, I went fishing catching the usual mangrove jacks and estuary cod.










When I came back to Sirocco, our house battery had discharged to the extent that the solar regulator had disconnected the load to prevent further discharge, so I couldn’t use the toilet to have a crap. Last night’s spicy fried rice was trying to burn its way out, and so I had to start the motor to help charge up the battery and it seemed to take for ever to go from 12.4v to 12.5v for the load to reconnect.

Around 09:00 we un-rafted the boats and moved from Casuarina Falls to the Amphitheatre Falls about seven miles up the main river. Along the way I made water.

The cruise up river was just magnificent and rivalled the King George River. We saw a 3m crocodile sunning its self on beach and when we quietly nosed over to take a photo it slowly crawled off into the water and disappeared.






The slow trip up the river took us about an hour and a half and we anchored out front of Amphitheatre falls, a very impressive grand one-hundred-metre-high rock Amphitheatre, but the falls were bone dry.

The water maker pressure pump started cavitating and so I had to change the intake filter, a two-minute job, but the problem was it was located under our food store, so it took us about an hour to move everything.

With the filter changed, I filled up the generator (to make water and charge the batteries while we are away) and we all headed over to find the track to walk up to the top of the Amphitheatre Falls. There was no track and the climb was extremely rugged. Putu and Luke stayed back at the dinghies while Bruce and I pushed on eventually reaching the summit.



The view was magnificent which made the hell sick climb worthwhile. Behind the falls were some really large clear ponds, but we didn’t go for a swim as the bottom was very silty and once stirred up wouldn’t be very nice, a real pity as we were pretty hot and dirty after the climb up.



The walk back down turned out to be much easier than I expected, but by the time we both got back down to the dinghies we were both very knackered. (at least I was)

After a bit of a rest, Bruce, Putu and I went out fishing and none of us caught anything worth keeping. When we returned, we went over and met Gordon & Myra (from S.V Harmony) also anchored at Amphitheatre Falls.





For tonight’s dinner, Luke cooked a stew and brought it over to have on Sirocco. (with the awnings down)

Late at night I could see some glow in the dark fish, but nothing like we saw in the King George River.


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