Wednesday, February 12, 2020

Thursday 13th February 2020 – Serangan Harbour to Gili Gede

We were up very early this morning and I disconnected from the mooring at Serangan at 07:00 heading for Gili Gede. I had some passage notes for the crossing which relieved the stress a bit, but time would tell which way the currents would be flowing.

Our first destination would be Nusa Lembongan, but first after clearing the harbour we had to head north for about five miles, hugging the coast on the twenty-meter contour to try and minimise the effect of the head current.

Once again there was no wind and for a change, we had nice blue skies, so we would be motoring.  We then changed course to head for the north eastern tip of Nusa Lembongan which should put us on a course with the least standing waves and most consistent currents.

Out in the middle of the Badung Strait the strong current was quite evident and there was lots of flotsam in the water and I had to concentrate intensely to avoid hitting a solid log and the many plastic bags and other rubbish floating in the water.

At one point, I took my eyes off our heading for a few seconds and there was a loud bang as a large log hit the port bow and was deflected under the hull. Luckily there was no damage and the mini keel deflected the log away from the propeller and rudder, but it gave us a shock and was a good reminder to be on guard.

We overheard people talking on the radio that a fisherman had discovered a smelly bloated floating body with a Gopro still strapped to its wrist close by. It turned out to be a missing Italian tourist who had drowned several days ago. Thankfully it wasn’t us who came across the body, as I couldn’t think of anything worse.

We made it to Lembongan without too many issues and even though I would really like to have pulled up there for a couple of days, we were rapidly running out of time and needed to keep moving.

We passed a very big and expensive luxury power boat that was half sunk on its mooring. As previously mentioned, you just don’t see this sort of thing in Australia, but over here if its not your problem nobody seems to care or get involved.

Imagine the shock the owner will get when he comes back with his family or mates for a couple of weeks holiday on his luxury cruiser. Or maybe its uninsured and the owner has abandoned it to avoid salvage fees?


Reluctantly we continued on and crossed the channel between Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Penida. There were strong currents and lots of standing waves and overflows. We were now in new territory as I haven’t been to Nusa Penida before and I was really keen to drop the pick for a day or two and hire a couple of motorbikes to tour the Island, but that will have to wait for another time.


The coast line of Nusa Penida in the south is extremely rugged with huge surf smashing in from the Southern Ocean while the north coast has no bays or natural harbours and a constant swell washing up onto the beaches or sea walls. The water depth drops off really fast also, so there are very few places to pull up for the night.

We watched people struggling to load an already heavily overloaded supply boat in the large swell before the passengers were loaded. This dangerous practice occurs here every day and its no wonder so many people lose their lives on these treacherous waters.


There are many moorings, but these are all privately owned. I would have to do some research to see if I could hire one for a few nights some time if we come back.

We hugged the north coast of Nusa Penida until we reached the Lombok Strait where we set a course to the south west corner of Lombok and headed for Banko Banko.

This part of the crossing would see the strongest currents, largest standing waves and the most shipping traffic so I had to be careful as many lives have been lost on these treacherous waters.

We came close to many tankers and ferries and experienced some pretty wild standing waves and overflows, the first we have seen since leaving the Kimberly.



Without too much drama we finally approached the coast of Lombok and headed into the small archipelago of Islands hidden in the south west corner. I cruised around checking out the nice beaches and looking for potential dive locations and places to explore in the dinghy.

There are quite a lot of pearl farms here and I had to weave our way through them and I marked some way points as I went to make the passage easy next time I came through.



Finally, at around 14:00 and 48nm, Gili Gede came into sight and after a call on the radio we were directed to the T-head on the floating pontoon for the night and tomorrow morning we will move back to our previous position in the marina.

Our friend Bob from Brave Heart was waiting to take the lines and said he will be heading over to Gili Asahan to test his diving gear if we wanted to join him. I said we will meet him there as I wanted to get our dinghy in the water and setup first.

After a bit of looking around, we finally found Bob and I dropped Putu off on Gili Goleng for a swim while I took the dinghy out to drift along the reef line. The coral and visibility was reasonable and we stayed in the water till around 17:30 when Bob suggested we head over to the south side of Gili Asahan to have dinner at the Nautilus restaurant.

Sounded good to me even though I had no shirt and was dressed in my diving outfit. Luckily no one cares around here and we enjoyed a few beers and a lovely meal in this beautiful little resort on the beach.

When it was time to leave it was pitch black and I had to follow Bob back as he had a chart plotter. I could have used my phone to navigate but following Bob was much easier as we weaved our way through the pearl farms.

Needless to say, we were pretty wasted by the time we got back on Sirocco and it wasn’t a late night.






Track Sirocco’s progress


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