Thursday, April 28, 2022

Thursday 28th April 2022 – Komodo Island (Monco Bay) to Gili Lawa Laut - North

I slept in till about 07:30 this morning then cooked up some breakfast, before going for a long dive. Unfortunately, I was too late to see any manta rays. We did see some close to the boat when we first woke up, but by the time I got in the water a slight breeze had developed making the manta's dive down deep.


There were lots of very small squid hanging around the boat, but nothing big enough to bother getting the rod out. We pulled the anchor at 10:40 and headed for Lawa Lout. It was only 9nm (2 hours) to Lawa Lout and when we arrived at 12:40 we were very lucky to find the only mooring vacant, so we hooked on right away and then went for a snorkel.


I had high expectations for this place as they often get manta rays here. Last time I came through the mooring was taken, so I was looking forward to diving here this time.

The coral was either very good, patchy or smashed to bits. Overall, the snorkeling was good, but I think the coral was better at the last two locations. There was a lot of fish life here though, I saw a shark and some turtles as well as some bigger fish, but no manta rays. I was surprised to see goats on the Island, apart from a large osprey, there was no other signs of life here and it was as hot as hell.


Just on dusk I went ashore to burn off some rubbish. The beach here at the high tide mark was covered in garbage as far as the eye could see. I picked the most littered location and collected some drift wood, then burnt off as much of the rubbish as I could. It’s hard to believe this is a World Heritage National Park. It would have to be the most littered area I have been to in Indonesia so far and nobody seems to give a shit.


Once again we had a lovely sunset.

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Wednesday, April 27, 2022

Wednesday 27th April 2022 – Pulau Banta to Komodo Island - Monco Bay

I had a terrible sleep last night even though it was cool and a very calm anchorage as I kept thinking of how close we were to the shore and I slept with one eye open and got up regularly to check our position.


I need not bother as there was hardly a breath of wind all night and we hardly moved an inch. In the morning I woke up around 7am and I cooked some bacon to have with last night’s beef rendang. After a couple of coffee's, Luke and I went snorkeling around the boat. After about an hour I got bored with snorkeling this spot and so I took the dinghy for a long ride to where I saw good coral yesterday.



I had another nice lone snorkel before heading back to the boat and getting prepared to move to the next location, Monco Bay on the north west side of Komodo Island only 9 miles away. On the way to Komodo Island I did a few small boat jobs. I reinstalled my gas alarm that I repaired while at home and I also installed a GSM tracking device and I also put some biocide in the fuel tank.



There was hardly a breath of wind and we arrive at Monco Bay around 15:20 against a 4 - 5 knot current with lots of whirl pools and eddy currents. We anchored in 3.7m on a small sandy patch between the coral heads and it took a little bit of adjusting the anchor rode until I was happy with our location and we went for a long dive around the boat to make sure there are no bombies we could bump into in the night. Once I was happy with the anchor I took off in the dinghy and found a great spot to dive with really nice healthy coral and lots of fish.



I love to have a fresh baby coconut every day for breakfast

The water temperature here is close to 34 degrees and is often crystal clear. I dived until it started getting dark and then headed back to the boat. After a shower, I did some washing, had some of last night’s leftover rice for diner, took care of my painful cut hands and relaxed with a few beers. This place is so beautiful with the ever-towering Mt Sangeang volcano dominating the background.



Mt Sangeang volcano dominating the background

Once again both engines have operated flawlessly and reliably which has given my aching body a rest and allowed me to do more cleaning and to get a few boat jobs done. My hands have almost healed up now, but I have a very painful left tennis elbow, and very swollen and painful bone spur under my left knee and my right wrist is also very painful, all from working in awkward positions on the engines.




As I write this it is dead calm and all you can here is the gentle shore break and fish jumping and splashing around the boat.

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Tuesday, April 26, 2022

Tuesday 26th April 2022 – Wera to Pulau Banta

I was up early as usual and cooked up another feast of bacon & sausages for breakfast while the loud chanting from the mosque loud speakers continued from the night before. After checking the engine oil and belt tensions, (all fine) we headed of around 08:45 for a 24 nm (4 hour) passage to Banta Island. 


Farewell to Wira

It was dead calm for most of the passage and I got a few small boat jobs done along the way as well as cleaning up the boat and putting a few things away.


It was so calm the local fishing boats were floating in mirages


I arrived at Banta Island at 13:20 and anchored in the northern bay on a tiny sand patch in 7m of crystal-clear water. Though technically we were just outside of the park, we were now in the majestic Komodo Islands. It was very hot and after lowering the dinghy, I dived in and checked the area for bombies and then spent the next hour or so inspecting the hulls for any damage (from the grounding the other night) and scraping off a little growth. Only a little anti fouling was rubbed off under each mini keel, we were so lucky.





After checking the hulls, I took the dinghy for a long trip around the North Western side of the island. The water was crystal-clear and extremely deep and the current was ripping through extremely fast. It was all very exciting, I did a few drift dives but the current was a bit too strong to relax, so I went back into the large bay where we were anchored and went snorkeling for several hours in the North East area. The coral was in really good condition and I saw several small sharks, a turtle and many small fish.

 

Latter back at the boat, Luke cooked a large pot of beef rendang that we took into the beach. We had dinner next to a huge fire I built with drift wood (surrounded by large lizard tracks) then washed it down with a few beers while staring at the embers. It was another great day and pleasant evening in a very beautiful location.



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Monday, April 25, 2022

Monday 25th April 2022 – Kilo to Wera

I got up early this morning and after a nice feed of bacon, I topped up the starboard engine oil and checked and tightened all the V-belts before we headed off on the 30 nm (5 hour) passage to Wera. 

Today both engines worked perfect and the passage was uneventful, but we had sloppy conditions all day with a strong head wind right on the nose once again arriving at Wera around 15:30, dropping the anchor out front of the town jetty. 




Once we got the boat sorted out, we headed ashore to look at the traditional boat building taking place on the beach. I was here a couple of years ago, but though it was a good opportunity for Luke to see the interesting work they do here. 

I walked up to one of the large boats being built on the beach and right away I started up a conversation with a young guy who spoke good English and he invited me to come aboard and have a close look around. 


It was his brother’s new cargo boat that was to be launched next week and it was getting the final touches done to it before the launch. These boats are all held together with wooden dowels and are built mostly by hand in the traditional manor from timber sourced from Sulawesi.

This guy surprised me when he started telling me several years ago people from the middle east came to his village and demanded all vessels currently being built were to be used for people smuggling to Australia and they demanded more boats were to be built and money was not an issue. 


After showing us several other boats, he then took us for a long walk all around his village. The whole time we had a huge group of shy kids following us and it was quite entertaining. The village was actually two separate villages and a lot larger than I first thought. Both villages were very clean and the people were friendly. 




The beach front was disgusting with rubbish everywhere, but the main street and all the houses were quite neat and it was obvious the people here were very poor. As it was Ramadan, everyone was fasting and we had to wait until the sun had set before we could eat & drink, so we sat in a small bakso warung and chatted while the owner snapped many photos of us for advertising their warung. 




After eating, we wandered all the way back to the beach where we left the dinghy hours ago and I was relieved to see it was still where I left it. We thanked this guy for such great hospitality and as well as buying him his dinner, I slipped him a token of appreciation in a hand shake. He was a little offended and I told him to buy his parents some food or donate it to the mosque and he said he will share it with his friends. 

It was a cool night but a very rolly anchorage and the chanting over the loud speakers from all the mosques seemed to go on all night, but we both slept well.

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Sunday, April 24, 2022

Sunday 24th April 2022 – Palau Medang to Kilo

Last night was by far the hottest night we have had so far. We both roasted all night long in our cabins with the small fan hardly making any difference. In the middle of the night a large cricked crawled over my face freaking me out. He soon got squashed and thrown out the window. There are still quite a few bugs and spiders in the boat to find and get rid of.

It seemed like just after I managed to nod off, the bloody alarm clock went off at 4 am. I got up and started both engines and the bloody port engine raw water pump V-belt was slipping, so I immediately shut down that engine and my plan was to fix it along the way. Outside was jet black as there was no moon. The sea was calm with a light breeze blowing, so I raised the main sail before heading out as I've done many times before.

After raising the main sail, we started to pull in the anchor and were surprised to find it snagged around a coral bombie. It was completely stuck in 5 m depth with 50 m of chain out. Luke tried for a while and couldn’t even get enough chain in to reach the bridle, and he overloaded the windlass and tripped the circuit breaker 3 or 4 times before I took over.

By using only the starboard engine, (the port engine was out of action) a bit of brute force and the windlass, slowly I managed to gain more chain. The chain appeared to be wrapped around a bombie or two that I didn’t see on the sonar when I circled around looking for a clear patch of sand. Normally I dive on the anchor after its set to ensure this sort of thing cannot happen, but I didn’t last night as we arrived just before dark and I was messing around getting the water maker up and running.

It took around 45 minutes of hard work to eventually get the anchor up and secured working in the pitch dark. 

I walked back to the helm, by now completely disorientated and I paused to look around for the light house on the Eastern tip of the Island to give me my bearings for the direction to head back out to the open ocean. Seconds later, as soon as I saw the flashing light, I swung the wheel hard to port and engaged the propeller to head out to deep water.

All of a sudden there was a sickening thud and crunching sound that shook the whole boat. 

WE HAD GROUNDED!!

I gunned the engine in reverse, but with only one engine operating, I lacked proper reverse steerage and the boat slowly swung around and the breeze filled the main sail and pushed us further onto the reef.

Everything seemed to be in slow motion, I was in shock and couldn’t believe what had just happened. Was all this just a bad dream or was this really happening. My mind was racing and I knew I only had minutes to act or there was a real chance I could lose the boat, suffer major damage or be stuck here for weeks waiting for a high enough tide to re-float the boat .

I don’t recall any reef being so close to where I anchored and I’m always very careful where I choose to anchor. In the confusion and time taken to get the anchor up in the dark, with a light breeze blowing on the main sail, we must have drifted a fair distance without either of us realising.

I yelled out to Luke to drop the main sail ASAP as there were more sickening thumps and shudders. It was so dark you couldn’t see your own hand in front of your face. Looking around with the only working torch, all I could see was shallow coral reef all around the boat, everywhere I looked. It was a sickening sight. What to do? I didn't have any cannons I could chuck over like Cookie did in the Endeavor.

Immediately we dropped the dinghy and Luke in the dinghy tried to pull Sirocco from the stern while I gunned both engines in reverse, but she didn’t move an inch. I paused for a quick think and look around and it was apparent the tide was coming in which was a huge relief.

I could see two very large coral bombie’s just behind each stern and I was mindful of damaging the vulnerable rudders and sail drives, so I got Luke to attach the dinghy to the port bow and he tried to pull Sirocco forward and to the port side. Suddenly, she floated free and we moved off the reef, but in all the confusion in the pitch dark, we both frantically tried to get our bearings to figure out what direction to keep towing, but our freedom was short lived and we came to a crunching thud once again, stuck solid on the jagged coral reef. My heart sank.

I looked around and quickly got my bearings from the light house and several bright stars, then formulated a heading we had travel to get to deeper water, then I quickly got into the dinghy and did a quick recce all around the boat to see what the situation was.

There were large coral bombie’s right behind Sirocco once again and very shallow water on the starboard side and both bows looked like they were grounded. So I attached the dinghy to the port bow cleat and started to pull Sirocco at full power with the dinghy in reverse. At first nothing happened and I was starting to think it was pointless, so I really gave it shit and to my surprise, Sirocco started to come off the reef and move slowly in my direction, it was like a slow-motion dream and happening all too easy. I was amazed at how easy it was to tow her, weighing around seven tones.

I kept going in the same direction until she was in 6 – 8 m depth and then I quickly scurried up onto Sirocco through the safety lines doing the worm as fast as I could, then I ran to the helm and engaged the engine and slowly motored out into deeper water. Gradually the water got deeper and deeper and once we were way out in around 20 m or so, realizing we were now safe, we started breathing again and hugged each other in a sweaty embrace and said a few yahoos. We thanked our lucky stars we had dodged a bullet and made it to freedom. I never want to have to go through that again.

In the sailing community, there is an old saying "There are those who have ran aground, and those who have yet to run aground".

By now it was 6 am and the sun was coming up. The whole ordeal had lasted for over two hours. We were both shaking and operating on adrenaline, it had been a very close call. I then went into damage control and started checking the boat. Thankfully both bilges were dry and the steering was working OK, so was the starboard engine and sail drive and both engine rooms were dry.

When we were far enough out and in deep water, I dived over the side to look for damage. Both rudders and sail drives were completely untouched and the only damage I could see was some scratching on the bottom of both mini keels and some scratching in the antifouling paint on both bows, so we were very very lucky indeed.

I spent the next 3 hours in the port engine room cleaning up all the pulleys using the tang of a round file as a lathe, then the round file, wire brush and finally some wet & dry sand paper to clean them up as best as I could before smoothing them out. Hopefully this will solve our V-belt wearing issue for good.

 

Before


After


When I finally had the port engine clean and back together, and all belts tightened, I came up into the cockpit and could hear a fleeting alarm coming from somewhere, it was the low oil pressure alarm on the starboard engine, so I quickly started the port engine and then shut down the starboard engine. When I investigated the cause, I found the new oil filter I installed the other day after doing an oil change was leaking, and most of the engine oil had leaked out making a lovely mess. I then spent the next couple of hours cleaning up all the oil and tightening the oil filter and v-belts. When I went to top up the oil I discovered that I only had about one litre of engine oil left and it didn’t even reach the end of the dip stick.

Now I was very concerned that if the port engine failed again, we would be in deep shit. What a day, and WHAT ELSE could go wrong?

We continued making steady progress all day using only the port engine, slowed down by a strong 17 knot head wind and a nasty swell right on the nose. It was a long day, but eventually we arrived at Kilo around 17:10 and before we had even anchored, some kids rowed out to take selfies with us. 

(We were later to discover, everywhere we went we were the first white people anyone had seen for more than two and a half years and we were treated like movie stars everywhere we went)


The village of Kilo

It had been a very long day and I was completely trashed. I had a shower on the back step and then we headed into the beach to ask a group of people lurking in the dark if there was someplace I could buy engine oil and get a feed. That's not as easy as it sounds when nobody speaks English and we didn't speak Bahasa. Some dodgy gangster looking dude stepped forward and offered us their motor bikes. I wasn’t quite sure if this was correct in translation, and next thing we know, both Luke & I were on the back of one of the motor bikes with one of the young selfie photo kids driving.

He rode a few kilometers, first through a very poor village over really rough tracks before we reached the main road where we dodged goats, people and cows walking or sitting on, or in the middle of the road in the dark before we came to a shop in the middle of nowhere that sold oil. I couldn’t believe my luck, so I bought two drums of quality Shell diesel oil and then we headed off to find a warung. We had a lovely feed of nasi goreng then the three of us climbed back on the tiny bike for the long trip back to the boat. I gave the dodgy gangster looking dude a friendly money handshake and we disappeared back into the night.


As the village was so poor, we locked everything including the saloon door just in case, but everything was OK the next morning.

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